Jeans, Fashionable but Dangerous

Globalization has generated interesting changes in people´s tastes and preferences around the world. Consider, for example, celebrations: “Thanksgiving” which has been extended as well as “Oktoberfest”, among others. In fact, you no longer need to be a native of a particular culture to celebrate these holidays. The same applies to gastronomy. You will find shawarmas, Cantonese rice, swiss-style cakes, etc., and you can taste them anywhere in the world.

This phenomenon is also happening with fashion. Jeans are being promoted everywhere and are extremely popular due to them being comfortable, presentable, durable, easily washable, fresh, versatile and with styles that can suit all tastes, genders and ages. Order a pair of jeans, anywhere in the world, and you will have something that is both retro and unique at the same time.

Jeans or denims, as they are also known, were created in the United States as a garment for men working in demanding jobs like in mines, on farms, and within the industrial sector. Their creators, Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss made a garment designed for comfort while dressing but who needed, at the same time, clothing that were resistant to wear and tear [1].

What was not expected was that jeans would become a hit worldwide, no longer just being for the working man but also to Hollywood in the 50s, where they became a symbol of “pop culture” thanks to actors such as James Dean or Marlon Brando. Jeans were transformed into common garments and highly valued by the avid buyer, not only men but also women.

Cotton, the basic raw material of this type of clothing, was dyed with indigo blue dye originally, but over time, other substances were added to it giving a variety of properties. Each chemical incorporated into the process potentially produced negative health effects because these chemicals could cause risks to personal health or environment.

You are what you wear

If the old adage is true of “that you are what you eat”, why not consider it equally valid for what you use as a garment? Goldman [2] heads an interesting article about the jeans or denim industry. It emphasizes the need to review the process of manufacturing this type of garment, without losing its distinctive qualities, but at the same time acting responsibly in environmental and safety matters to people; in this sense he states:

“… From the factory to the designer, throughout the supply chain you are aware of the concern. In February, world leaders in the textile chemical industry accepted the invitation of the House of Denim, a non-profit foundation in Amsterdam, to discuss the necessary collaboration to include all actors operating in textile chemistry to drive towards a consistent and conscious chemistry throughout the supply chain and beyond denim… ”

In fact, Levi Strauss & Co., recently, as an example of what is happening in the sector, reported the start of a new process for the detection of chemicals, as part of its commitment to reduce use of potentially dangerous substances in their clothing.  This effort has already been in place for over 18 years, with constant reviews and incorporation of changes that are beneficial to the environment, its workers and the buyer. In this, its most recent announcement, Levi Strauss & Co also expresses its intention to join the OEKO-Tex ECO Passport certification system [3].

But, should we be worried about risks when wearing jeans?

When we think about the risks, we should separate them, for practical purposes of analysis, on risks to the environment and risks to people. In the first case, the “water footprint” in the jeans industry is a matter of constant criticism, since the process of making only one pair of trousers implies the consumption of about 3,781 liters of water, according to the spokesmen of the Levi Strauss company [4].

According to this same source,

A pair of jeans requires between 500-800 gallons of water; only the cultivation of cotton worldwide uses 222 billion mm3 of water per year.

And these figures in a world that is in a water crisis cannot go unnoticed. The problem with water (and therefore the obligation to make rational use of it) is such, that the Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Human Rights, in a recent speech, pointed to projections that speak of some 700 million displaced persons around the world due to the lack of drinking water. The demand is still expected to increase between “20-30% above current levels” [5].

In fact, “textile is the second industry that most contaminates the planet” [6]. Because of it, there is not only water tension in some regions, but also rivers stained by the industry wastes. Asia is one of the regions most affected by this phenomenon, where 70% of its rivers are contaminated by the dumping of the textile industry wastes[7].

Other risks to the environment that affect the human being, are chemicals. These are due to the use of synthetic products from yarn spinning, through pre-treatment, dyeing, weaving, rinsing and washing up to the final details of the garment.

The yarn process includes the use of polyamides, elastane, polyester spandex (a type of polyurethane) and acrylics. In the pre-treatment, chemicals such as peroxide stabilizers, cleaning agents, defrosting agents and caustic soda are used. The greatest number of additives are used in the dyeing stage; dispersing agents, acrylic polymers, sodium hydrosulfite, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), dye fixers, epi-polyamines, sodium hydroxide, synthetic dyes, bisulfite of sodium, ethylenediamine, silicone defoamers, ammonia and potassium persulfate [8].

To all this, we should add in the final stages of the manufacturing process where lubricating agents, styrol / maleic acid copolymers, modified polyesters, polyacrylates, amylases, cationic and silicone softeners, polyurethane resins, chloramines, acetic acid, detergents, sodium hypochlorite, hydrochloric acid, acrylic resins, silica, potassium permanganate and formaldehyde are all used[8].

All these additives pose a separate risk to the environment and people to a variable degree, but when together could have an enhanced effect.

But what are the risks in particular?

Firstly, if we think about the jeans that are water resistant. This property is due to the addition of a class of toxic chemicals known as per and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAs). These are related to the development of renal and testicular cancer, liver damage and developmental problems. But the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) considers skin contact a “minor” source of exposure. [9].

The presence of phthalates has also been reported in jeans, as it has been said on previous occasions these substances are related to attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD), asthma, diabetes, breast cancer, reproductive toxicity and even endometriosis in women [9].

Formaldehyde is another potentially hazardous substance, that cannot always be completely removed by washing clothes. It is linked to asthma, nausea and even some forms of cancer; although the most common adverse effects are dermatitis including rashes, blisters and itching. [9].

Finally, the blue dye currently in use, comes from a group of Azo dyes that can be potentially carcinogenic. In fact, some of the azo dyes have been banned in the EU precisely because of the risk of cancer they pose [9].

What to do to prevent risk?

As part of the industry, looking back at the circular economy, sustainability and responsibility towards everyone involved leans towards initiatives such as the Eco Passport or the Alliance for Denim Responsibility (ARD) to be promoted and extended.

As a consumer, the purchase of brands and products that are not only eco-friendly but also committed to the health of workers in the industry and the consumer himself should be promoted.

A practical measure to reduce some of the risk associated with chemical exposure is to wash the garment before using it for the first time and if possible, like recommended with some fabrics and carpets, expose it to air to eliminate some of the volatile compounds that can be found on the fabric or the plastic wraps.

Again, the conscious and responsible everyday choices can make a big impact on the environment and your life.

References:

[1] Montanez, M. (January 2, 2019). The history of jeans at liveaboutdotcom. Recovered from https://www.liveabout.com/the-history-of-jeans-2040397. Accessed on November 26, 2019.

[2] Goldman, E. (March 2, 2017). Denim Experts Weigh in On Chemicals on Sourcing Journal website. Recovered from https://sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-brands/denim-experts-weigh-in-on-chemicals-96387/. Accessed on November 27, 2019.

[3] Asch, A. (November 21, 2019). Levi Strauss & Co Strengthens Chemical Screening on ApparelNews. Recovered from https://www.apparelnews.net/news/2019/nov/21/levi-strauss-co-strengthens-chemical-screening/. Accessed on November 27, 2019.

[4] Fluence News Team. (November 5, 2018). The water footprint of the blue jean on the fluence website. Recovered from https://www.fluencecorp.com/es/huella-agua-vaqueros-azules/. Accessed on November 27, 2019.

[5] United Nations, Office of the High Commissioner for Human Rights. (March 19, 2019). The right to water 2019 in Author website. Retrieved from https://www.ohchr.org/SP/NewsEvents/Pages/DisplayNews.aspx?NewsID=24360&LangID=S. accessed on November 28, 2019.

[6] LaSexta.com. (July 11, 2019). The textile industry, one of the most polluting in the world: we bought 80% more clothes than a decade ago at the Atresmedia website. Recovered from https://www.lasexta.com/noticias/sociedad/la-industria-textil-una-de-las-mas-contaminantes-del-mundo-ahora-compramos-un-80-mas-que-hace- una-decada-video_201907115d274deb0cf2812cab0ea61a.html. Accessed on November 28, 2019.

[7] Webber, K. (March 8, 2018). The Environmental and Human Cost of Making a Pair of Jeans on EcoWatch. Recovered from https://www.ecowatch.com/environmental-cost-jeans-2544519658.html. Accessed on November 28, 2019.

[8] Source Denim. (September 11, 2015). Chemicals and synthetics used in making denim on Source Denim website. Recovered from https://sourcedenim.com/stories-of-source/chemicals-in-denim. Accessed on November 28, 2019.

[9] Bendix, A. (July 11, 2019). 7 toxic chemicals hiding in your waterproof, stain-resistant, and wrinkle-free clothes in Business Insider. Recovered from https://www.businessinsider.com/toxic-chemicals-in-clothes-cancer-2019-7. Accessed on November 29, 2019